Elizabeth The Golden Age

In class we watched the second instalment of Cate Blanchett playing the role of Elizabeth; for me I think Blanchett plays the role really well yes she's Australian but her English accent is pretty spot on. Elizabeth was always marked as 'The Virgin queen' for me within portraiture Elizabeth isn't conveyed as this womanly being; to men she was a equal. Blanchetts petite framing suits this role perfectly as a juxtapose to Abbie Cornish who plays Bess is womanly and also becomes the wife of Sir Walter Rayleigh, jealousy is obviously and even turns violent from Elizabeth when she realises Bess is in face Rayleighs sight of affection.

A poster for the film from the IMBD website

The film follows in Elizabeth's reign during the time of the Spanish's efforts to make Mary Queen of Scots the new queen of England due to there dislike of Elizabeth making Catholicism not the main religion the English would follow, the Spanish Armada then try to invade this of course obviously doesn't succeed as Mary was beheaded and the Armada ended up in flames. The film also follows the Babington plot in which Elizabeth is then nearly assassinated but lucky for her the gun in which is used is only carrying gun powder so of course Elizabeth's life prevail and she carries on ruling. Quite symbolically Elizabeth is wearing white in the scene of course if she had been shot the red against the White would of flooded and been even more symbolic, the dead Virgin Queen.

The look thoughtout the film has been carefully executed and has continued from the first film, of course Elizabeth is now seen as a lot older, wigs are in full swing as we have a climpse of her dressing room and the hundreds of dresses she would of also had. A entire team of ladies in waiting also attended Elizabeth with Bess being Her favourite this is also historically correct.

In this film from the first "Elizabeth I" instalement where Elizabeth is seen with her hair down and a un-whited out face at the start of her reign clearly referencing the fact Elizabeth was extremely young in her cornination days. Age is shown due to Elizabeth referencing herself as "a old women" and even having short hair due to a hair loss (wigs)

The Spanish costuming was similar to the Elizabethan but men and women tended to wear a lot of deep colours also lace collars I've noticed in the film and from researching after were also crochet and actually called a 'Cuello' and often decorated with fancy threads such as the crochet detailing, more high maintenance having to be washed everyday as presentation meant class and was important to the Spanish.

            http://www.wondersandmarvels.com/2012/04/ruff-ing-it-and-the-politics-of-fashion.html


Maybe the most important part of the film is when England are preparing for war against the armada. Elizabeth is already looked by her people with respect by in this scene this is what makes the history books; Elizabeth 'The Virgin Queen' was not gonna be married to one man; But to her country.

The gold and white striking amongst the sea of grey amour.

Modern Day References

The project is a development from the Elizabethan Era copying a beauty look isn't whats briefed of us.


Vivienne Westwood

The lady herself

Vivienne Westwood through power points and influences for the project has always come up; not only does this striking and brilliant role model actually look Elizabethan with her looks but a lot of her workings within the Vivienne Westwood brand are inspired with essences of the style. The Vivienne Westwood brand is quite essentially British; first becoming huge in the 60's and then landmarking herself in our history as a brilliant fashion designer.

The idea I had to incorporate Vivienne Westwoods work and look into using it as part of my modern day referencing was after seeing the London Fashion Show in S/S14. I love this LOOK. Extremely theatrical and extreme but with brilliant referencing towards the Elizabethan era with the use of a whited out face and the inclusions of cerise on parts of the face; like a Elizabethan woman has done her makeup in the dark. A modern twist on something classic. Angles are everywhere from the eyeliner to the cheek bones, contouring is in its extreme being un-bended. Theres an actual finger paint feeling about this entire piece.

vivienne Westwood S/S14

After looking into this inspiration I also looked at using disclosure and their famous logo work as a inspiration, both looks are different but looking at the use of using a main colour and creating a more angling on the face inspires me within my own New Elizabethan look.

Disclosure

Disclosure. We all know who Disclosure are; the two piece brother band Guy & Howard Lawrence from Reigate who in the last few years have hit the big time in English and the rest of the world with their music stylings. The big hits such as 'Latch' which made Sam Smith also popular. Well done lads.

No what really interests me into their working isn't only the music but the photography and graphic designs they have achieved in the Disclosure brand. How cool are these designs? each image is different but symbolic to Disclosure

Within my own working after looking into modern references the art workings in this style came to me first. A face on a face. At the time of even clocking onto the idea of including a modern reference such as Vivienne Westwood catwalk shows and Disclosures looks was during a powerpoint shown to us by Sharon and then the Disclosure came from actually getting ready and seeing the album art work on Spotify. I looked and clocked onto the new idea buzzing around my brain. Lets incorporate this!

http://nbhap.com/music/news/disclosure-when-a-fire-starts-to-burn/

Completely unique yet simple. I liked the way the lines had created shape onto the face, on that fit the model underneath.

http://nnmusicblog.tumblr.com/post/17779353937/chatting-breeze-jessie-ware

The image above is Jessie ware one of the first Disclosure images I had seen, the song behind the image which was a mix of her song "Running" a popular song for both artists.

The imagery is iconic. 

Within my own work I didn't want to take this idea I simply wanted to represent the fact I had been inspired by it. What I like the most is the fact the jaw is highlighted its unique and shapes the face more, my own face is square so a white line would look to harsh plus white wasn't really a all the time worn colour such as gold; which I ended up going for as it also matched my eyeliner so looked like a continuous line.

So after this initial practice a few days ago I decided a softer line was much more suited onto this look.

                                                          

For me this looks a lot softer still with the defined and obvious inspiration the way this lines been done is more suitable for what I had planned on my facial chart.

Dangerous Beauty - Film Review

Catherine McCormack & Rufus Sewell who play Veronica and Marco  

http://www.armchairanglophile.com/dangerous-beauty/

A film I watched on night after uni was a great film called Dangerous Beauty; I hadn't actually intended to write about what I'd seen I in my head had planned to be eating chocolate in bed watching the film instead there I was at my desk writing notes and pausing at any long point. 

The film which is quite ...... is actually set in the same era as the Elizabethan times. This film though is set in Venice and shows Venetian society and the struggle women had back in the days where men were the hear all and end all when it came to choices and how things were.

The story basically follows the beautiful but slightly tom boyish Veronica who falls in love with her friends brother Marco. Due to differences in class Marco knows he will never be able to marry his love due to the increasingly strain his face is placing onto him about an arranged marriage. Heart broken and without marriage Veronica is given a ultimatum by her mother an ex-courtesan to either become a nun or to follow in her footsteps... I wonder which one she picks. 

  Throughout the film we follow Veronicas journey; becoming a strong women who needs no man yet is completely wanted by extremely important men. Of course Marco comes back into her life unhappily married and still devoted to her. Its only when after living the high life for a long time and the black plague hits Venice during which all the courtesans are condemned and some even tried for witchcraft.  Of course Veronica is tried for witchcraft after having such a reputation for bedding the most powerful men in Venice; Marco and Veronica announce their love for each other and the ridiculous way she had been presented by the church. 

Costume plays a bit role in the character. Veronica is noted as a 'tom boy', though very feminine and even alluring whilst in her courtesan character. In one scene she actually has a sword fight with Marco's jealous cousin (he wants her services and she denied him). Unusually she wears underneath her robe a pair of trousers, of course you wouldn't dare see Elizabeth in trousers, unless it was amour. Another scene during in which Veronica and Marco are falling in love sees Veronica matching Marco on his horse riding skills.

At the start of the film the colours worn were pale yet after success the colours intensify and Veronica is seen wearing reds (Courtesans main colour) and oranges. 

Hair was worn up and pinned, compared to the fashions of English regal hair with the tight curls and padding. Hair is down completely at the beginning of the film to show youth and virginity. When circumstances changed and hair was more kept the styles and attitude of the characters looks become more 'glamourous'

Mens costume is pretty similar within all the men. Older men do tend to wear to wear more blacks then the younger generations though all men tended to wear gold medallions and gold threads accessorising their garments.

the entire makeup of the film is pretty kept for the main character of Veronica unlike some of the other courtesans 'natural' beauty is worn with blushed cheeks and red lips. In one scene the white powder on her face is seen in the light; to make her look paler which must mean the viewing of paleness as more beautiful also continued much as the Elizabethans viewed. Being Venetian this look of course would of been harder to achieve from the Mediterranean side of the continent.

This film is extremely enlightening especially aimed in that period of time when Elizabeth herself was shown to the English and world as a great ruler. Women were started to stick up for what they believe in and the differences in male dominance and women just being wives were changing. Based on a true story this women changed her future and actually married for love, not power.

Watch!

Practices- Designing stage

Practice, Practice, Practice that what me and my partner have been doing since the setting up partners happened a few weeks ago; it wasn't until last week though when we were split into who would be makeup and designers first. For the first week I am the partner who has designed the look for myself and created templates and a set list of instructions for my Make up artist partner to commence with we also pretty standardly have done a consultation sheet on each other. I'm sure a lot of you can tell I can't wait for christmas break this year hehe. To be fair for tomorrow I don't feel like I'm freaking out me and my partner are prepared as much as we possibly can be; being honest about positive and negative things that could be adapted in my design itself

In one of the practicals we discussed all the 'Learnt' and 'Need to do' aspects of my design. On the first test practical we did I wasn't sure with the way the base had be applied for my skin is quite clear I though a heavy foundation base just looked unneeded with the rest of the makeup so after some adapting and testing I found to keep it light and buffed out which Anna agreed looked better.

I always wanted big brows a collect juxtaposition to the classical Elizabethan look; for a high fashion look and personal preference  I thought the design suited the strong-ness  including eyebrows would bring. Filled out lightly due to having dark eyebrows anyway and brushed upwards; In the actual practical I'm bringing in hairspray as after testing gels don't really work in ensuring the shape whilst hairspray also solidifies.

The eyes I'm really happy with Anna's blending is gorgeous and have no concerns for when she does the design tomorrow.

Lips are pretty much the same, except I have a staining underneath which I want pencilled in as it creates a larger lip (who doesn't want big lips)

So in all we have 2 hours to complete and shoot the look (Digital image lessons coming in handy there); the photography side has been aimed to take half a hour so in all after setting up we really have about a hour and 15. Thank god we've been timing our practices. 

We learnt from this practice that the Modern inspired line NEEDED to be blended of course if David Bowie was the influence it would work but he isn't; blend blend blend.

From What I was saying earlier about Eyebrows... big and bold, these I did on myself tonight is what I've designed/asked Anna to do.

Worked well so hopefully the looks we have both designed are completed like the image in our heads when its both our turns to step up and work on each other ☯

Spectrum Brushes yay or nay?

So the other day I was looking into a new set of brushes that I could start investing in for my kit. I wanted something feminine but still with the qualities that any practicing or future Makeup artist would have to carry within their kit.

I discovered the company Spectrum seeing a post they were tagged in on another page that was using their brushes within a brush belt (it looked amazing). Wow these brushes are gorgeous in the collection I found the look of the brush was completely unique. Pink handles with a ombre blue to purple brush. I had to have a few.

Looking on the website I was completely surprise at the prices of the brushes describes as 100% synthetic vegan brushes I was expecting a hefty price tag especially with the design but actually prices for each brush is completely affordable and thats coming from a extremely poor student. The most expensive brush I bought was £9.99 a large fan brush that was much needed, the quality of the brush is even clear from the photo not only in real life once delivered the design of the brush basically means whilst applying you will be left with a soft un-heavy finish, on the websites images the hair on the brush looks slightly crimped this is designed with the idea of more product being collected which is helpful as it saves double dipping. Compared to other brands such as Mac you would be looking at spending a good £30 to get a quality brush; when you can get a good one for a tenner thats striking I know which one I'd now in future always be selecting.

In all I brought 9 brushes most of them were ON SALE. Ridiculously the 9 brushes only cost me £24.99

I brought:

1 Large Fan Brush
2. Artist Brush Set (was like a third of the original price)- this includes five brushes which were...

• Large Oval Artist Brush

• Large Angled Artist Brush

• Small Oval Artist Brush

• Small Angled Artist Brush

• Fine Tapered Artist Brush

3. Small Contour Brush
4. Large Domed Brush
5. Eyeliner Brush

When they arrived I got a adorable thank you note which was a nice touch the brushes also came in a plastic pouch which will be perfect for keeping as a lipgloss,eyeliner,lipstick holder within a kit. The quality of the brushes is great extremely soft. After washing them the brushes have stayed soft and none of the lovely colour has faded. The handles are also extremely strong and made from wood which is perfect for busy MUA's who will have them in their hands all day long.

I still can't get over how good I got these prices, even on full price the 9 brushes I bought would set you back £55.95 (yes I've worked it out) which for 9 good quality brushes is hardly anything.

I would highly recommend looking into this up and coming Brush Brand.

☞ http://www.spectrumcollections.com ★★★★

My, my what a glorious surprise.

Now modern day influences throughout our entire Elizabethan project have obvious been important in creating the essence that is "The New Elizabethans" we've looked at fashion. We've looked at music and writings; and we've looked at influential people.

Yet.. French photography Sacha Goldberger has taken this mix between Elizabethan and modern to a entire new image. I am amazed. The entire collection is beautiful we are transported to youthful memories and the thought of pop culture within our society. We are now shown of these much loved characters creates a entirely new perspective of the characters we've read and watched on our screens for the best part of a century.

I am completely fascinated by this series; who would think to create such a beautiful and intriguing master piece?

The inclusion of the costumes being worked into a traditional Elizabethan outfit. Oh my.

Now look and enjoy. Or look on the website either way check this talent out.

http://sachabada.com/portfolio/index.php/nggallery/page/2?portfolio=super-flemish-9 -

A lot of ruffled neck collars creep their way into the shoots; Just look at the detailing of the fabrics...      Each suiting the character perfectly

The poses of the subjects 's another salute to Elizabethan era within art the poses are completely relatable to the paintings of the times.

This outfit on C-3PO of course looks extremely eccentric with the gold against the white ruffed but yet again this look in reference is Elizabethan the gold for one as gold was a rare and expensive shade to be worn only by the rich but the use of the ruff not only on the neck but smaller versions on the wrists would of also been fashionable for men of the time to wear.

The patterning on the outfits showing the detailing incredibly clearly, the different layers some of the characters have on such as the joker below with his green and purple attire; yet again the colour is extremely Elizabethan. The inclusion of a satin cape draped over him would also show that is he was in the Elizabethan century he would be extremely wealthy and terrifying hah.

"What if Superman was born in the sixteenth century?
And what if the Hulk was a Duke?
How might Van Eyck have portrayed Snow White?"

a quote from the Sacha Goldberger website, link is in the first paragraphs.

What if? What is Walt Disney and Stan Lee and the other creators had thought of these characters in the 16th century? would people even think of things like super powers? 

All of these characters are iconic; not one shouldn't be known.

The strange coincidence that many of the super Heroes and heroine characters are wearing red and golds? One of the richest shades in Elizabethan times only renascence people of birth were to wear. Is that a coincidence that fictional characters have been dressed in the colours seen as important in Elizabethan times?

The much loved R2-D2 looking even cuter then in the Star wars trilogy with this eccentric attire on his round robot frame.

Goldbergers work is exciting and fresh to an audience on her professional website she writes at the bottom whilst talking about the project 

"As science fiction meets history of art, time meets an inexhaustible desire for mythology which is within each of us"

These characters infuse the memories of our childhoods from books to watching things with them in; the ideology of them lasting forever hasn't crossed our minds entirely because we have grown up knowing about them from the onset. Old paintings of Elizabeth and other famous tutors like her father Henry VIII has also stood securely in history; even though fictional these characters are standing the test of time and remaining in our culture as iconic. Just think Alice's Adventures in Wonderland was written by Lewis Carol (Charles Lutwidge Dodgson) in 1865 and is still a iconic and idolised character.

Which ones your favourite? 

This entire production is completely enchanting. 

All images were found on - http://www.ufunk.net/en/photos/super-flemish/

My design

So throughout my design i have been looking into what would be ideal for the "New Elizabethan" brief; we have looked into a high range of different makeup techniques from traditional Elizabethan makeup to heavy contouring whilst learning on the colour spectrum.

On the traditional Elizabethan side I enjoyed learning about the looks and techniques women of that era would use everyday, of course if you were a farmers wife you probably wouldn't bother but for woman of class or the try hards the look would be fashionable. for me I found the actual look extreme we contour now but looking into what they did with even the ingredients in their makeup seemed extremely dedicated to the beauty. After 10 years of putting lead on ones face though would probably make you look like Nanny McPhee on a bad day.

Contouring can either go two ways especially is your using a powder or a grease, light or heavy. Of course contouring can also go hideously wrong and you can look like a evil queen but other then that it's a basic look.

For my final designs I feel like I've taken a obvious inspiration from the Elizabethan (obviously this project isn't for the Egyptian era) and contouring, ones face should always been slightly highlighted. within colours looking into what was popular in beauty in Elizabethan times I've actually taken a lot of inspiration from golds this colour was expensive, pigments/dyes back then where imported in i.e the wealthy could only afford these desired colours. I'm also using purples another colour that wasn't for the poorer public.

Any who here is a few designs, the first one is the original which I have since progressed from. Now the design is "New Elizabethans" remember; though from my view the influences from the Elizabethan era within this look are quite obvious, inspired by Elizabethan regal colours I wanted to make something unique that could work as a high fashion look.

For me personally I really like this look the lips are the purple hue due to lips being stained with berries back then. The idea of the gold actually originated after a few hours of reflection and planning, why shouldn't my design have that? For me personally I wanted to create a final design that is interesting; the New Elizabethan's project wasn't meant to be played safe.

Eyebrows have been included because I wanted to juxtapose the original Elizabethan looks of shaved eyebrows I just felt so the design it wouldn't work with the other aspects of it.

As you can tell the main colour I'm using is purple in my look. Purple in the Elizabethan times was
Also my own actual colouring from all the regal Elizabethan shades works better with purples, green eyes suit the purple lids due to the fact green and purple are opposites on the colour wheel.


So after this design was shown to Kat my tutor I started thinking about how I could adapt the design even more. During a practical with my partner working on my design I started thinking about changing the gold after looking into Modern referencing and looking at old Vivienne Westwood shows and the classic Disclosure 'Latch' white graphic art work.
My brain was turning so I started exploring the idea using my maybelline gold eyeliner onto my face and drawing away

Ta Da!

Now this is my second design and the one I will be using on Monday the 24th of this month for my final design for Anna to create under my premeditated guidance.
I actually am really happy with this design, the camera does darken the image quite a lot so its not really represented the best on here but other then that I think the design is good.

The makeup is pretty much the same as the other one except the lip with be one single colour not ombre and the contouring now includes a shimmery highlight that helps introduce the effect of the gold. The colour of the gold is also Illamasqua Solstice Liquid metal, the product I find just goes on a lot better

http://www.illamasqua.com/shop/solstice-liquid-metal this product is perfect for any detailing or Elizabethan inspired designs!

A lot of practicing is happening by monday.

Elizabethan Paintings - What do we notice ?

Elizabeth I By Nicholas Hilliard

This painting by Nicholas Hilliard of Elizabeth I in her youth is a brilliant representation of youthful popular makeup in the Tutor times. The clear class of Elizabeth is also apparent dressed in her finery to present her power. The crown tilted slightly on her head and rose is also extremely youthful even in fashion today flower pieces and bands are extremely popular.

Elizabethan really enjoyed showing off how wealthy they were draping them selves in jewels and the most expensive pieces they have. A modern day selfie.

For Elizabeths makeup in this portrait its very traditional Elizabethan. The skin is extremely pale with her red hair contrasting; skin looks extremely clear to which could indicate her age as she contracted small pox at 28. I've also noticed Elizabeth actually has faint eyebrows unlike the paintings of her when she's older. Maybe removing eyebrows became a craze a few years later when Elizabeth was in her reign.

The colouring on her cheeks is a lip pink as is her lip though stained with what looks like it could of been a berry due to the shade. The cheeks look like a faint cerise colour maybe being a stain or powder. The expression on Elizabeths face has been captured in a slight smirk theirs a lot of proudness on her face. This woman knows she is of important.

I have noticed almost like photoshop is now Elizabeths features look a lot softer then they do in later life, the face is rounder and nose is softer at the end. Theres a youthful glow to her like her face isn't to caked on with the lead vinegar white face paint mix.

Elizabeth to a Elizabethan audience would of been seen as gorgeous. She had the red hair and pale skin a combination of great attractiveness. Remember Pale = Class.

Project test practicals

New Elizabethans 'What are the New Elizabethans' this project is extremely diverse i've learnt from looking into old Elizabethan popular beauty looks, yes the looks for us now were extreme and wouldn't be use exactly in public now but we can take colours and practices to inspire use for the project.
'New Elizabethan' a modern take on a century old look.

My partner on the project is Anna this weekend out of class she came to my dorm room and we practiced her makeup look and vice versa on another day. Anna on her work is the designer but I am the makeup artist so a lot of pressure is on me so obviously a few practice runs makes sense.

Anyway of course if something needs to be changed in the design within the facial chart or the actual process wasn't working we would know.

Here is a scan of the facial chart Anna created, the actual original is a lot clearer with a pinker cheek from the blush. The look is quite heavy which makes it contemporary straight away, the includiton of the eyebrows makes this look perfect for its inspiration with colours such as cerise lips and the white eyelashes.

Annas helped me out a lot adding a list of all the products she's used especially in a project details like that are vital in expressing a design, what if she mixed the colour onto the lips and forgot the processes. The lips themselves are a mix of colours. 

So here's the start, notice the base isn't whitened out like the classically Elizabethan beauty looks. this Kryolan alabaster shade suited Anna's skin tonne perfectly pale but with a ounce of colour.

Anna has a good clear complexion so blending and applying the foundation is a easy task; of course cleanse and tone before incase any old makeup is still on the face.

Next another Elizabethan reference is created in the blusher on the cheeks, the pink that gives Anna a rosy complexion. A light contouring is also applied using powdering; whilst doing the practical I did say maybe Anna wanted to look into a grease on grease approach with the concealer to contour as for me personally I find a better final look with that way of contouring

After all the skin base was finished it was time to move onto the eyes; quite clearly Anna has decided to not use the process of blocking out her brows, I personally think this is the right choice for the design as it makes the makeup more contemporary rather then just an Elizabethan look.

I love the eyelashes; easily done with the Kryolan Supra Color in white and a disposable mascara wand (bulk buy on ebay). We were discussing the eyeliner and Anna said she had originally wanted links to add to the contemporary look but hadn't found a good liquid eyeliner so this was just a eye pencil. I recommend a product by lime crime so we'll test that out if she gets it; though I quite like the eyes they are simple yet who in our day and age walks up the high street with white mascara one?  Anna has long eyelashes so would need to curl before any application was taking place.

The last process we I tested out on Anna's face was a lip design she wanted which basically was a ombre of two colours one outlining her lips in a red whilst having a lighter pale pink lip. The look is quite heavy and harsh on the rest of her face after blotting the lips looked much better but still heavy. Another thing that we will be practicing.

So here is the final image of the practice. The lighting in my room is terrible so flash has to be on. For me the design I think I worked to Anna's vision onto herself quite well; in the actual practical things might be different as the design could change. From this practical we looked at changing a few things to suit not only Anna more but to make the design more contemporary such as heavier contouring and lighter lip ombre. After we had finished working we spoke about the design and what had shone in the practice today and what Anna was thinking about developing more by changing the process or the colour of the look.

I think Anna's design is great for the brief the skin looks very natural with the pink cheek like they would have in Elizabethan beauty but the difference in using her actual skin tone and the inclusion of a brow and eyeliner makes the look modern and fashionable.

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen the incredible designer who lives on through the legacy of designers working for his label such as Sarah Burton his original right hand women and the now creative designer. His designs are beautiful the dedicated workings of a talent.

McQueen in a lot of his campaigns has clearly been inspired by the Elizabethan era which reflected on the catwalk.


Fall/Winter 2013

The fall/winter McQueen show in Paris. Just look at these images; the references to the Elizabethan era is as clear as day... the structured clothing, the lace, the collar and thats just the outfit. The hair is covered in this beautiful pearl detail on the hair net; a piece of both art and jewellery in my eyes. The beautiful clear makeup on the girls that also nods to the Elizabethan era with the slight tinting on the lips and paleness with the blond eyebrows. The look is contemporary because the net covers the models faces something in Elizabethan times they would do and off course the fact skin is revealed to show how modern times have changed from the days of only ankle peeping. Sarah Burton at the time was pregnant with twins and still managed to pull this off with the McQueen team. I love this entire show.

McQueen Show F/W 14

Fall/Winter 2004 

Extremely contemporary yet still with clear referencing toward the Elizabethan era in the fall/Winter 2004 collection for McQueen, its madness to think this show is ten years old. Off course this look isn't a exact copy of an Elizabethans beauty look but the references are there; the bleached eyebrows, the tight curls of the models hair which are extremely Elizabethan with the fact on many of the models they were in the hairline like in many portraits in the era  (notice above its red, red hair and pale hair was seen as the ultimate beauty look to have in Elizabethan times) 

the models faces are also whited out to make them look extremely pale. Theres a extremely to this look the makeup though simple still looks extremely to its lack of life. The eyes are the focus point on the face framed nicely under the eyebrows in a pale yet still but defined line. The entire look is structured.

F/W 04

RIP

Contemporary Elizabethan facial Charts

Anyone who is following this blog by now would realise my project is based on the theme 'New Elizabethans' the modern take on the classic Elizabeth beauty look, throughout the term we have been learning in both Hair styling and Make up lessons how we will achieve and design our final pieces. Strangley enough this project is also a test on ourselves to see how well we can design as we have been paired up and will actually give our designs on our partners to do on ourselves. Our designs are for us basically. The final 'test' or whatever you wish to call it is in 2 weeks. 

In Kats lesson we have began practicing for final looks creating facial charts that could inspire our final looks. Using colour/shape in a traditional Elizabethan sense yet adding a contemporary feel to the looks.

In the lesson I think I panicked slighting and went blank on all the ideas I had been thinking about swirling around in my brain. No the chart isn't terrible it suits the time period well, includes props such as pearls, using popular regal colours but for me I would use either of these as my final looks. Good practices but certainly not the finished outcome.

The Taming of the Shrew

http://www.bbc.co.uk/drama/shakespeare/tamingoftheshrew/

Taken from the original Shakespearean play written by the great man himself the 'Taming of the Shrew' was this time reverted into a modern inspired piece for a mini series of classic Shakespearean plays shown on the BBC in 2005.


We watched and took notes of the show in class looking deeply into references towards our own project of the New Elizabethans. Of course back then when the play was originally written it was during the Tutor/Elizabethan era. The entire has been produced with a modern take on a classic.

Whilst watching we starting writing notes about things we had noticed about the costume and location.

The social class shown within the entire program with the main character Catherine being of high class; she works in parliament. The clothing of her mother is designer and the sister Bianca is a celebrity. I noticed the mother who is played by Twiggy (if you don't know Twiggy be ashamed) wore a lot of purples; in the Elizabethan era purple dyes would of been extremely expensive only important people wear such a colour. Regal elegance.

A reason why the actress Jaime Murray who played 'Bianca' Catherines sister could be for her certain looks very renascence beauty with the paleness and definded features such as cheekbones and straight nose.

The actual conversation at the start of the show between Catherine and other characters is to do with marriage and the fact that if she wanted to gain power she should marry; having a man at your side apparently makes you more likeable in the eyes of the public. Just think Elizabeth I was viewed and seen as the virgin queen image all the pressure she had at the beginning of her reign to find a preferable suitor that her courts would approve off. The amount of displeased looks on peoples faces to hear the queen, the most important person didn't want a marriage for herself.

Much like in the Elizabethan era the idea of a selfie type thing was within self portrait, placed proudly to show important and wealth painted in fineries. In Bianca's apartment in one scene we notice a number of self photographs canversed around; self adoring; this woman has what she wants when she wants her apartment reflects her self loving personality and proudness.

Rufus Sewells character of Petruchio who is Catherine's love interest and suitor in the end is much a matched to her, the expressions and even anger make this pairing once realised quite perfect. She relaxes around him. Petruchio is from the upper class this is apparent even before he opens his mouth. He clothing is luxury wearing furs and even with a clear reference to the Elizabethan era a cerise shirt underneath a jumper; Cerise was a extremely popular but expensive colour only worn by the elite.

Catherines clothing is extremely structured much like the clothing and pieces for woman in the Elizabethan period, high collars, structured collar bones, roll neck jumpers all extremely professional and high maintenance.

Within the beauty within makeup being provided the look is very simple fresh skin and light eyes and lips, hardly any makeup is worn by Catherine even on her wedding day she looks bare, her sister Bianca is slightly more made up with a hint of lip gloss and mascara though still extremely simple and light.

On the wedding day which turns out to be a disastrous affair before romance starts to blossom on their honey mood there are clear as day references to Elizabeth which also includes the Elizabeth I movie with Cate Blanchett where she finds out her potential marriage suitor is a French cross dresser; in the taming of the Shrew the character of Petruchio turns up in a satin jacket and dress looking extremely eccentric and drunk. He even has painted nails to add more anger to Catherine for ruining her special day.

I love this entire production the subtle solutes to the Elizabethan era are only noticed after studying fashions and beauty within that time period.
invest in watching its hilarious

Who is The New Elizabethans in the 21st Century

We were given the task to looking into someone who has influence society as it is today in the modern era; people that looking back at our so called time of the New Elizabethan era of people that would be written about, famous authors, musicians, actors, scientists. The period of time we are currently In is described as The New Elizabethan due to Queen Elizabethans ruling on the throne; her long lived legacy that has stretched over generations.


The exercise has been inspired by article written in The Telegraph in 2012 title the self proclaimed "Who Are the New Elizabethans" a article based on the Queens Jubilee which was held in the summer of that year. The article is based around the question 'Who are the 60 greatest figures of the queens reign'


http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/the_queens_diamond_jubilee/9103883/Who-are-the-new-Elizabethans.html


Of course I could of chosen Queen Elizabeth to write about being the leader of not only the church of England but only the common wealth someone who will be noted in the history books, her exceedingly long reign and fact she has moved with the modern times (she has twitter haha).


After writing a list of people I decided to use J.K Rowling the quite essentially brilliant author of Harry Potter the woman that create the entire idea on a train from Manchester. The stories that I for one have read at least 8 times. This woman brought me and millions of people a fantasy within our childhoods. I remember waiting even though madness at the bottom of the stairs on my first day of high school for my Hogwarts letter.
Thank god Bloomsbury decided to publish her; Harry Potter is brilliantly English and has become part of our history.

The women herself

J.K Rowling isn't only inspirational because of the idea that form out of her head onto paper but also within the fact that before Harry Potter came along she was a independent single mother living off benefits and struggling extremely hard with personal problems. Within 5 years of Harry Potter she went from benefits to a multimillionaire; a true inspiration story.


Not only creating a classic and forever loved series of books Rowling has turned her attention towards politics supporting and representing for the Labour party but also charities such as One parent families which I'm sure is extremely close to home. If Rowling hadn't turned her life around and had the idea on the train who knows where she would be. Described as extremely genuine and stirring out of the lime light as much as other successful people Rowling has been described as being a introvert.


In the public eye why not keeping away from events or television interviews Rowling is actually seen as a sex symbol maybe its the creative mind but many see her as someone of power and influence. For me this woman helped spark my imagination. If you don't like Harry Potter then you probably haven't read them.

The New Elizabethans- Eyebrows and Traditional beauty

 Continuing looking into the Elizabethan popular makeup creations; In class this week we proceeded to work on a actual inspired traditional look. Of course back in the day the makeup would of been created with different cosmetics you wouldn't just be able to whip out your illamasqua white base foundation and get on with your day; no for a Elizabethan 'pale skin' look not only would the woman stay out the sun to stay pale but she would put a mixture of white lead and vinegar onto her face. The dedication. Woman actually bled to achieve the pale look; I wonder how many people were anaemic. Oh the price of beauty.

Anyway In lesson we had to create a traditional look pretty simple pale skin blushered cheeks and tinted lips. Lippy also back then would of been stained with berries, not a 24hr stay I'm sure.
So to start of the desired look Elizabethan women would pluck their eyebrows completely off and even pluck their hairlines to get the Elizabeth (seen as the role model of that times facial creations) beauty look. Imagine plucking your hair line now, the idea of it. blah.

Blocking out eyebrows is fun and simple there are two techniques in order to achieve this unusual look. The first way to block out eyebrows is using a bit of pritt stick with water and a spatula; basically work the pritt into the brow first the opposite way to the hair and flatten with a finger whilst doing it then with the hair to basically glue down and create a smooth barrier that will be covered with foundation to help remove the brow with the hideous shaving your eyebrows off look. REMEMBER THE EYEBROW IS THE FRAME OF THE FACE, without them you could look Elizabethan.
The other process of blocking out eyebrows is actually using a soap bar. cheap or expensive a bar will work. For this process though use a angled brush and make the paste into a thick consistency and then much like the glue create the blocking out effect using a spatula and using the finger to dab down to dry and conceal the hair.

Here come the face charts

so a while back in our practicals we were looking into the use of contouring, later on we looked into heavy contouring a practice use in many high fashion campaigns/runways. a exercise afterwards to create some inspired looks using what we had learn within colour theory and how they would work within makeup. Each photo has been taken using a camera due to a temperamental scanner

This facial chart above is inspired with the use of monochromatic within the eyes and skins, many shades of brown have been used to create the desired contouring look using blending techniques with small eye shadow brushes and brown pigments. Of course the lips are suited within the monochromatic look but for me personally I think they suit the brown. classy and sophisticated. 

This face chart is under the influence of a complimentary tone, as most of us know purple and yellow are complimentary colour as they are positioned opposite each other on the colour wheel. Those a extreme look and definitely not for the every day theres something quite girly and romantic about this look the soft lips and eyes blending with the contrasting heavy lip liner and eye liner framing each feature.

Another two looks I decided to do where just colour play and exploring the idea of planning out and heavily contouring a face chart with the idea of referring that to an actual model. Each look is heavy in the use of contouring but also not a everyday look. The bottom photo looks like it should of been on the set of Blade Runner.

The Tower of London

My brothers graduation. A gorgeous day spent in much appreciated family time.

My family love history and art ever since I was little we've gone to see interesting things on occasions much like any other modern family would; after the graduation held in Greenwich's old naval college (The most beautiful building ever) we headed for the Tower of London to see the famous poppy display they have in the grounds in memory of the every British fatality in the First World War a sickening 888,246 poppies will be placed in all.

My god. The sight of all these hundreds of thousands ceramic poppies is breath taking. A uniquely sad yet beautiful creation. Spilling from the tower like blood.
The contrast of the tower with the background of Urban London rising above it still amazing. Oh London Town.

The project of "New Elizabethans" if perfect for the visit Tower think of all people guilty and innocent that died in that tower. Tragic.

Elizabeth as a princess was actually sent to the tower by her half sister Queen Mary I "Bloody Mary" as she was suspected of plotting against her. Just think how different Britain would be if Elizabeth had been found guilty and sentenced to death.. The national heroine she is today, The woman who single handedly inspired troops to victory over the Spanish Armada.
Image how terrified she would of been in that time.

The poppies have brilliantly all sold, the good £25 x 888,246 will do. incredible. All salute and mark of respect to all the people that died.

find out more at
http://www.hrp.org.uk/TowerOfLondon/